Leaded Glass Restoration

The original panel was damaged - most pieces were broken. I salvaged the center oval and the top curved frame.

Step 1 - I traced a pattern from the original piece making adjustments for distortion.

Step 2 - After matching the original glass (this is one panel of a set) I cut pieces from the pattern. Each piece is numbered because though some pieces may be the same size, they aren't interchangable.

Step 3 - Salvage is the fun part... I cut away the solder holding the top frame. I'll need that piece later.

Nothing like a hammer to free up the center piece. It's a custom etched oval... gotta save that too.

Step 4 - After all the class is cut and shaped and the lead came is streached, it's time to start fitting it all together. Glass fits into channels in the lead. Nails hold the pieces in place as the panel takes shape.

Working from one corner I fit each piece in, trimming the glass if necessary to follow the patern. This has to fit back into the same opening it came out of.

The whole piece is fit together with the original center oval and curved frame.

Step 5 - All joins have to be soldered together, front and back. I have to be careful not to use too much heat because the lead will melt.

Step 6 - After soldering the entire piece it had to be "mudded".  Lead "mud" is pushed into all the edges where class and came meet. It secures the glass and seals it.

After applying the mud by hand I force it into the crevices with a small brush. This is done to both sides of the panel. The glass is now secure and drafts are sealed out - this IS a window!

Step 7 - Whiting powder is applied. This lead powder cleans residual lead from the panel and brushing "polishes" the lead to a dark luster. The panel has to lie flat for 25 hours while the mud dries.

Done! Ready to install! Lead is fleible and is able to expand and contract with temperature changes. That is what makes it ideal for doors and windows.

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